Building safety from A to Z: From design to demolition

Yaser Mohammed, FLS Design Manager at Diriyah Company, explains how building safety runs through every phase of a building’s life, from design to demolition

When people think of fire safety in buildings, they often picture sprinklers, smoke alarms, or the red pull stations on the wall.

But true fire safety is much more than devices or hardware.

It is a story that begins the moment a building is imagined and continues until its very last day.

Just like people, buildings have life cycles, birth, growth, changes and eventually retirement.

At every stage, fire safety must remain a constant companion.

According to the NFPA Fire Loss in the United States report (2023), more than 1.5 million fires are reported annually, leading to nearly 3,800 civilian deaths and over $18 billion in property damage.

These sobering numbers remind us why fire safety must be treated not as a single milestone, but as a continuous journey.

From vision to blueprint

The seeds of fire safety are planted at the earliest stage of planning.

Architects, engineers and fire protection specialists must work together to make choices that shape the entire life of a building.

At this point, fundamental questions arise:

  • Who will use the building?
  • How many people will it hold?
  • What hazards might they bring with them?

A hospital, for example, requires defend-in-place strategies for immobile patients, while a shopping mall demands wider exit routes to accommodate tens of thousands of visitors each day.

Standards guide these decisions.

The Saudi Building Code (SBC 201) and NFPA 101 both stress the importance of classifying occupancy types and calculating occupant loads correctly.

The placement and width of exits, the need for fire barriers and the scope of suppression and detection systems are all influenced by these early design choices.

If designers opt for prescriptive compliance, they follow code requirements directly, while performance-based design allows them to use advanced tools such as computational fluid dynamics modeling to demonstrate safety.

As former US President Dwight D. Eisenhower said: “Plans are nothing; planning is everything.”

Building it right

Even the best design means little if it is not built correctly.

The construction phase is often where fire safety faces the biggest risks, not from fire itself, but from shortcuts.

Contractors under pressure to save costs may use materials that don’t meet the code or fail to properly seal fire barriers.

Poor coordination between trades can also create problems, such as sprinklers being blocked by light fixtures or ducts cutting through fire walls without protection

Commissioning serves as the safeguard against these risks.

This process is more than a checklist; it is the proof that fire safety systems function as intended.

Sprinklers are tested to ensure they activate at the correct temperature, alarms are measured to confirm they meet the required sound levels and smoke control systems are evaluated for their response time and integration with detection systems.

NFPA 4, which requires integrated system testing, emphasises that individual components may work, but unless they work together, lives remain at risk.

At the end of this stage, the authority having jurisdiction signs off only if the building demonstrates true readiness.

Living with fire safety

When a building opens and people move in, fire safety begins its longest stage.

The responsibility now belongs to the owners and facility managers and their main task is to stay alert.

Fire systems must be regularly checked, tested and maintained, following standards such as NFPA 25 for sprinklers, NFPA 72 for alarms and NFPA 80 for fire doors.

NFPA research shows that sprinklers worked in 92 percent of fires large enough to trigger them and they were effective 96 percent of the time.

Most failures, however, came from closed valves or poor maintenance, simple issues that could have been prevented, but instead can turn a small fire into a major tragedy

History has shown the consequences of neglect.

The Grenfell Tower fire in London in 2017 demonstrated how outdated systems and compromised fire barriers can magnify disaster.

Similarly, many nightclub fires, from Rhode Island to Brazil, were exacerbated by blocked exits and disabled alarms.

These lessons reinforce the importance of not only maintaining systems but also managing daily operations with discipline: keeping corridors clear, ensuring extinguishers remain accessible and training staff to respond calmly during emergencies.

Renovation brings an additional layer of complexity.

Buildings rarely remain static; an office may transform into a restaurant, or a warehouse into a theatre.

Each change reshapes the fire safety landscape.

Adding new cabling may puncture fire-rated walls, while increased occupancy may demand additional exits or sprinkler coverage.

Owners must treat every renovation as a new chapter, with approvals, reviews and upgrades.

As the saying goes, a building that changes without updating its fire protection is like a car driven without brakes.

Preparing for the inevitable

No matter how strong the design or diligent the maintenance, emergencies can and do occur.

At this stage, the focus shifts from systems to people.

Fire drills, as mandated by NFPA 101, translate theory into practice and have been shown to reduce evacuation times by up to 35 percent.

Modern advances are adding new layers of protection: voice evacuation systems that deliver clear instructions, AI-driven evacuation tools that adapt to real-time smoke and crowd movement and dynamic exit signage that redirects occupants when familiar pathways are blocked.

Even the end of a building’s life cycle brings risks.

Demolition and decommissioning involve hot works, temporary electrical wiring and combustible debris, all of which are potential ignition sources.

NFPA 241 sets strict requirements for construction and demolition safety, while NFPA 14 requires standpipes to remain available in partially demolished high-rise structures until the process is complete.

Fire safety must remain in place until the last wall comes down.

A thread that never breaks

Fire safety is not a one-time achievement but a continuous journey, running like an unbroken thread from the first sketch on paper to the final swing of the wrecking ball.

It demands the commitment of architects, engineers, contractors, regulators, owners and occupants alike.

When managed correctly, the reward is not measured only in compliance certificates but in lives saved and tragedies prevented.

A safe building, in the end, is not the result of one decision, but of a thousand small decisions made right, every day, for decades.

About The Author

Yaser Mohammed is the Fire Life Safety Design Manager at Diriyah Company.

He is an experienced fire protection engineer with more than a decade of work across construction, consultancy, and emergency response.

A member of the NFPA 101 Certification Advisory Group and holder of eight certifications from NFPA and ICC, he specialises in fire and life safety design.

Proficient in Saudi Arabia’s local regulations and the wider GCC market, Yaser ensures that projects align with both local and international standards.

At Diriyah Company, he leads safety design initiatives and works closely with stakeholders to deliver compliant and effective solutions.

Dedicated to advancing safety practice, his focus is on creating safer, smarter, and more sustainable environments.

This was originally published in the October 2025 Edition of International Fire & Safety Journal. To read your FREE copy, click here.

The MHCLG’s latest appointment signals a turning point for construction accountability

Thouria Istephan appointed interim Chief Construction Adviser

A new interim Chief Construction Adviser has been appointed by the Ministry of Housing, Communities and Local Government (MHCLG).

The appointment, announced on 30 September 2025, sees architect Thouria Istephan take on the role.

She will provide independent, expert advice to ministers and government on building safety and regulatory reform.

The MHCLG said the appointment is a key milestone in delivering the government’s response to the Grenfell Tower Inquiry Phase 2 recommendations.

Her work will support the development of a safer, more accountable construction sector with residents’ interests central to decision-making.

Role to support building safety and reform

The MHCLG confirmed that Istephan will serve in the role for 12 months on a part-time basis.

Her appointment was made through a direct ministerial process in line with Cabinet Office guidance.

The ministry said the interim position allows essential work to start immediately while the permanent role is established next year.

Her responsibilities will include advising on regulatory design and the ongoing transformation of the built environment sector.

According to the MHCLG, Istephan’s experience in architectural design and safety oversight will help ensure reform efforts continue to advance at pace.

Minister highlights experience and leadership

Samantha Dixon, Minister for Building Safety, said: “Ms Istephan brings extensive experience and a strong commitment to public service that will bring valuable insight and meaningful change to building safety in this country.

“It also allows us to restore trust and improve safety, accountability and confidence across the sector.”

Dixon said the new appointment reflects the government’s ongoing effort to strengthen leadership in construction safety.

Istephan reflects on her appointment

Interim Chief Construction Adviser Thouria Istephan said: “This role enables me to apply my extensive architectural experience, together with insights gained through my work on the Grenfell Tower Inquiry.

“It represents a unique opportunity to provide independent advice that promotes progressive and proportionate standards.

“I am committed to playing my part in addressing the devastating consequences of past failures – on people, on the environment, and on the innocent lives lost – as well as the enduring emotional and financial burdens that so many continue to face.”

Before joining the Grenfell Tower Inquiry panel, Istephan held senior roles at several international design and architectural practices.

Her previous positions included Construction Design Management Manager, partner and Technical Design Deputy across large-scale projects and sectors.

Relevance for fire and safety professionals

The appointment of Thouria Istephan as interim Chief Construction Adviser is relevant for building safety officers, architects, fire engineers and regulatory compliance professionals.

Her advisory work will inform government policy on building safety reform and the implementation of Grenfell Tower Inquiry Phase 2 recommendations.

Changes arising from her input could affect construction standards, design practices and the regulation of fire-safety measures within the built environment.

Professionals involved in design, inspection and risk assessment of buildings may need to align with updated guidance or new frameworks emerging from this advisory period.

This article was informed by information from the following source: the Ministry of Housing, Communities and Local Government (MHCLG)

Changing a Battery in a Smoke Alarm

Smoke alarms are essential life-saving devices that warn us of fire, but they can only do their job if they have power. 

You are around 8 times more likely to die in a fire if you do not have a working smoke alarm. 

Many fatal home fires occur in houses that had smoke alarms installed but the alarms failed to go off, often due to missing or dead batteries. 

But how does changing a battery in a smoke alarm work?

Whether your smoke alarm is a standalone battery-powered unit or a mains-wired alarm with a backup battery, checking and changing the battery regularly is critical. 

This ensures the alarm will function when it’s needed most..

How to Change a Battery in a Smoke Alarm?

how to change a battery in a smoke alarm

Changing the battery in a smoke alarm is a straightforward task, but it’s important to do it correctly for the alarm to work. 

If you have a battery-powered smoke detector, the process involves opening the device, swapping the old battery for a new one. 

Here is a simple step-by-step guide for typical battery replacement:

Open the Alarm Cover

Most alarms either have a cover that twists or lifts off. 

Gently remove or twist the cover or the body of the alarm to expose the battery compartment. 

Remove the Old Battery

Unclip or slide out the old battery from its holder. 

It may be connected by a snap-on connector or simply held in a slot. 

Take note of how it was oriented.

Insert the New Battery

Put the new battery in the same way the old one was. 

Match the + and – terminals correctly so the markings on the battery align with those on the alarm’s battery contacts. 

Push the new battery firmly into place or reconnect the snap-on connector if there is one. 

Use the type of battery recommended by the alarm manufacturer.

Close the Alarm

Fit the cover or alarm unit back into place and make sure it clicks or twists closed securely. 

Finally, press and hold the test button on the smoke alarm until the alarm sounds a loud beep. 

This confirms that the new battery is working and the alarm is functioning.

What Types of Batteries are in Smoke Alarms?

what types of batteries in smoke alarm

Smoke alarms can use a few different types of batteries, and it’s important to use the right kind. 

9-Volt / AA

Most standard smoke alarms use either a 9-volt battery or AA batteries as their power source. 

Traditionally, many alarms took a single rectangular 9V battery (often called a PP3 battery). 

In newer models, it’s common to find replaceable AA batteries (usually 2 or 3 AA cells) instead of a 9V. 

These AA batteries together provide the required power and often have a higher combined capacity, meaning they can keep the alarm running longer.

Always check your alarm’s manual or look at the existing battery to know what type to use as a replacement. 

Long Life Lithium

There are also long-life lithium batteries available for smoke alarms. 

Some modern alarms come with 10-year sealed lithium batteries built in. 

These batteries are not removable; instead, the entire alarm is designed to operate for ten years on that sealed battery, after which you replace the whole alarm unit. 

Ten-year sealed battery alarms are popular because you don’t have to change the battery every year.

They give continuous power for the life of the alarm, and then you dispose of the unit once the battery is exhausted.

Mains

For mains-powered smoke alarms, the primary power comes from your house’s electrical supply, but they almost always have a backup battery. 

This backup is usually a 9V battery or sometimes a couple of AA batteries, depending on the model. 

The backup battery is there to ensure the alarm will still work if there’s a power cut. 

Mains-powered alarms still need their batteries replaced periodically, just like battery-only alarms. 

The difference is that a mains-wired unit will draw its daily power from the mains electricity.

However, if that backup battery is dead or missing, the alarm won’t sound. 

So keep the backup battery fresh.

Coin Cell

Occasionally, some compact smoke detectors use other battery types like built-in coin cell batteries or special long-life batteries. 

For example, a few small-form smoke alarms might use a lithium coin cell or a specialised lithium pack. 

These are less common, but the key point is to always use the exact type of battery recommended by the alarm’s manufacturer. 

Using an incorrect battery type (for instance, the wrong voltage or chemistry) could either prevent the alarm from working or cause it to underperform.

What to Avoid When Changing a Battery in a Smoke Alarm?

While changing a smoke alarm battery is simple, there are some important things to avoid to ensure your alarm remains effective and safe:

Not Replacing Battery

Do NOT leave the alarm without a battery. 

One of the biggest mistakes is removing the old battery and then forgetting to insert a new one immediately. 

Even leaving a smoke alarm without a battery for a short time is risky.

You might get distracted and not return to it. 

Always have a new battery on hand before you take the old one out. 

If an alarm is beeping in the middle of the night due to low battery, resist the temptation to just take the battery out to silence it and then go back to sleep. 

Unfortunately, some people do this and then neglect to put a new battery in later, leaving them unprotected. 

Never disable or remove the battery to quiet a ‘nuisance alarm’, instead fan out the smoke or use a hush button if your alarm has one. 

An alarm with no power won’t save your life in an emergency.

Wrong Battery Type

Avoid using the wrong type or a poor-quality battery. 

Smoke alarms are designed to use a specific battery type. 

Don’t try to fit a physically incompatible battery or one with incorrect voltage. 

For instance, do not try to power a 9V-only alarm with some makeshift combination of other batteries. 

Also, it’s best to use good quality batteries from reputable brands for smoke detectors. 

Cheap or old batteries may not last as long or could leak. 

Follow any guidance in your alarm’s manual about which batteries are recommended. 

Using the exact type (alkaline vs lithium, etc.) that’s advised will ensure the alarm functions correctly. 

If your alarm uses multiple cells (like 2×AA), always replace all of them at the same time with new batteries from the same pack.

Never mix old and new batteries together in the alarm, as this can cause leakage or reduced performance.

Recharge Batteries

Do not use rechargeable batteries in smoke alarms (unless the manufacturer specifically allows it). 

Rechargeable batteries are generally not recommended for smoke alarms. 

This is because rechargeables (like NiMH 9V or NiMH AA cells) have a slightly lower voltage and they self-discharge over time. 

They can run down much faster than normal alkaline batteries, even if you don’t use the alarm often. 

For example, some rechargeable 9V batteries might lose their charge in a matter of weeks or a couple of months, which is not reliable for a device that needs to work 24/7. 

Most smoke alarm manufacturers and fire safety experts advise against using rechargeable cells, as they may not meet the required backup time and reliability standards for an alarm. 

Stick to standard alkaline or lithium batteries as recommended.

Damage

Avoid damaging the alarm or its parts during battery replacement. 

When opening the alarm and handling the battery, be careful. 

Do not force the battery in or bend the contacts excessively.. 

If you accidentally pull a wire or break the battery clip, the alarm could malfunction. 

In such cases it would be better to replace the entire alarm. 

So take your time and handle everything gently. 

If the battery has a little plastic ribbon or tab designed to help pop it out, use that to remove it rather than prying roughly with tools.

When to Change a Battery in a Smoke Alarm?

when to change a battery in a smoke alarm

Knowing when to replace your smoke alarm’s battery is just as important as knowing how. 

Batteries don’t last forever, and a smoke alarm will give you warnings when its battery is weak, but you shouldn’t rely solely on the alarm’s chirp. 

Here are the key guidelines on when to change the battery:

At Least Once Every Year

For typical smoke alarms with replaceable batteries, the standard recommendation is to replace the battery annually. 

Many fire services advise changing the battery every 12 months, even if the alarm hasn’t started chirping yet. 

This pre-emptive change ensures the alarm will not run low at an inconvenient or dangerous time. 

Choosing a date you’ll remember, like your birthday or New Year’s Day, is a good way to make it part of your yearly routine. 

If your alarm uses standard alkaline batteries, they are inexpensive, and it’s worth the small cost for peace of mind.

Low Battery Warning

Your alarm will alert you when its battery is getting weak by emitting a regular ‘beep’ or ‘chirp’ sound. 

When you hear this, replace the battery immediately. 

The alarm is telling you it doesn’t have much power left. 

Don’t ignore it. 

Once chirping starts, install a fresh battery right away. 

This should stop the beeping and restore full function. 

If the alarm continues to chirp after a battery change, it could indicate a different issue, such as a fault in the alarm or that the unit is at the end of its life.

If it Fails a Test

You should be testing your smoke alarms regularly. 

If you press the test button and it doesn’t sound, it could mean the battery is dead. 

First, check if the battery is properly fitted. 

If the alarm still doesn’t sound, try a fresh battery. 

If that doesn’t solve the issue, the alarm itself may be faulty or too old and should be replaced.

Key Takeaways

You should now have an understanding of changing a battery in a smoke alarm.

Maintaining your smoke alarm’s battery is a small chore that carries a huge reward.

it could save your life and the lives of your loved ones. 

Many fire fatalities happen in homes where smoke alarms were present but had failed, often due to flat or missing batteries. 

This is a tragic statistic because it’s preventable with simple maintenance.

The bottom line is that a few minutes of simple maintenance can provide around-the-clock protection. 

Keep your smoke alarms powered, tested, and in good shape.

This way, if a fire ever breaks out, the alarm will reliably give you that urgent warning to get out safely. 

Stay safe!

How BESA is reshaping ductwork competence in the UK

BESA publishes new ductwork competence toolkit

The Building Engineering Services Association (BESA) has released its second practical guide to support competence in the UK building services industry.

According to BESA, the toolkit provides support for professionals in industrial and commercial ventilation hygiene, following an earlier guide for industrial and commercial ductwork.

The association explained that the resources are designed to help firms and individuals meet obligations under the Building Safety Act and existing standards.

It added that the guides are free to download and show how to evidence Skills, Knowledge, Experience and Behaviours (SKEB) in practice.

BESA said the new guide offers a template of “what good looks like” at both individual and organisational levels, with advice on applying experience and knowledge as evidence.

Context of competence frameworks after Grenfell Tower fire

BESA reported that the failure of collective competence was identified as a contributing factor in the Grenfell Tower fire.

The organisation noted that national skills frameworks are being developed in response to the Hackitt Review recommendation.

It added that the new guides are intended to offer immediate support while broader frameworks are finalised.

The association said that clients increasingly need to see evidence of competence and compliance, making the guides directly relevant to current practice.

BESA indicated that the resources provide immediate help for engineers and contractors working in high-risk building environments.

Alignment with wider industry and regulatory bodies

According to BESA, the toolkit content aligns with work led by the Engineering and Building Services Skills Authority and Sector Group 10 of the Industry Competence Steering Group (ICSG).

It said that future guides in the series will also align with the ICSG’s work across all building engineering sectors.

BESA added that the approach is part of sector-wide collaboration to improve competence and compliance.

The association noted that this will support the goal of a consistent national competence framework for the industry.

Development with industry partners

BESA reported that the new ventilation hygiene guide was developed with ADCAS and Milford & Marah.

It explained that the guide provides specific support for industrial and commercial ventilation hygiene operatives, including air and grease hygiene technicians.

The association said that the guide covers cleaning requirements in critical healthcare environments and outlines safety considerations for high-risk buildings under the Building Safety Act.

It added that the toolkit reflects collaborative work between trade and consultancy organisations to strengthen competence across the sector.

Toolkit content and guidance for professionals

According to BESA, the guide sets out principles such as accurate record keeping, third-party validation, and regular compliance reviews.

It said that the toolkit also explains the role of training, qualifications, and on-site records in providing evidence of competence.

The association noted that supervision under the Building Regulations is included, alongside organisational processes for managing competence.

It added that ventilation hygiene operatives are given examples of qualifications and assessments needed for different tasks.

BESA explained that the toolkit provides clear pathways for evidencing competence and professional behaviour.

Industry response to the new guides

BESA’s director of specialist knowledge Rachel Davidson said: “The guides in this series are all designed to help individuals and companies simplify the process of measuring and assessing competence in a practical and easy to understand way.

“They form the first step towards creating a much-needed competence and compliance culture and are designed to support the more in-depth work being carried out by the ICSG to produce a national competence framework for the whole industry.”

Jon Vanstone, chair of the Industry Competence Committee, added: “These toolkits are a clear and practical example of what good looks like when sector-led initiatives meet the ambitions of national policy.

“This work provides an essential foundation for ensuring individual competence can be properly demonstrated and supported — both now and in the future.”

Davidson added: “There is still a lot of work to be done to help our industry develop a true competence and compliance culture.

“However, these ‘starter guides’ provide an important first step.”

Relevance for fire and safety professionals

The guides are linked directly to competence and compliance requirements under the Building Safety Act.

They provide practical examples of how engineers and contractors can meet safety obligations when working on ductwork and ventilation systems.

The resources also give context for understanding how competence frameworks apply in high-risk buildings, including healthcare facilities.

Fire and safety professionals can use these guides to support training, demonstrate compliance, and prepare for future regulatory requirements.

BESA publishes new ductwork competence toolkit: Summary

The Building Engineering Services Association (BESA) has published a second competence toolkit.

The toolkit is for the UK industrial and commercial ventilation hygiene sector.

The first toolkit in the series was for industrial and commercial ductwork.

The new guide provides examples of competence requirements under the Building Safety Act.

It includes guidance on training, qualifications, supervision, and record keeping.

The content aligns with frameworks developed by the Industry Competence Steering Group.

The guide was produced in collaboration with ADCAS and Milford & Marah.

Rachel Davidson of BESA said the guides simplify measuring and assessing competence.

Jon Vanstone of the Industry Competence Committee welcomed the toolkits.

The ventilation hygiene SKEB toolkit is available free on the BESA website.

Where to Install a Carbon Monoxide Detector in Your Home

Carbon monoxide (CO) is often called the ‘silent killer’ because it is an invisible, odourless gas that can be deadly. 

CO poisoning causes dozens of accidental deaths each year and many more illnesses. 

The best protection against this danger is a carbon monoxide detector.

A carbon monoxide detector is a small alarm device that can alert you to CO gas in the air before it harms you. 

However, installing the detector in the right place is crucial. 

What is a Carbon Monoxide Detector?

what is carbon monoxide detector

A carbon monoxide detector (also known as a CO alarm) is a safety device designed to detect the presence of carbon monoxide gas.

It serves a similar role to smoke detectors, but instead of sensing smoke, it monitors for carbon monoxide. 

Because carbon monoxide is impossible for us to detect on our own, a detector is often the only way to know if this gas is building up in your home. 

Carbon monoxide detectors are typically small, battery-powered or mains-powered units that can be mounted on a wall or ceiling. 

They continuously sample the air for CO. 

If the device senses a dangerous concentration of carbon monoxide, it will emit a loud, high-pitched alarm to warn everyone in the vicinity. 

Many modern CO alarms also have test buttons and indicator lights, and some models include digital displays to show CO levels.

Basically, a carbon monoxide detector acts as an early warning system .

It will alert you as soon as CO is present at hazardous levels, giving you time to ventilate the area or evacuate. 

By installing CO detectors in your home, you can be warned of a carbon monoxide leak before it reaches life-threatening levels. 

Where to Install a Carbon Monoxide Detector in Your Home

where to install a carbon monoxide detector

Knowing where to install your carbon monoxide detectors is just as important as having them. 

To provide effective protection, detectors should be placed in locations where they can detect CO quickly and alert people throughout the home. 

The general rule is to install CO alarms near any potential source of carbon monoxide, and near areas where people sleep. 

This ensures that if a dangerous CO leak occurs, the alarm will pick it up early and wake you up if you’re sleeping.

Here are some guidelines for positioning CO detectors in your home:

In Rooms With Fuel-burning Appliances

Place a detector in each room that contains a potential CO source, such as a gas boiler, gas fire, wood-burning stove, or gas cooker. 

For example, if you have a gas boiler in the kitchen or a fireplace in the living room, install a CO alarm in those rooms. 

It should be installed at a distance of 1–3 metres from the appliance, if possible, rather than right next to it. 

This distance helps the detector sample the air in the room effectively without being immediately exposed to small transient puffs of exhaust from the appliance. 

Avoid placing it directly above a cooking appliance or fire, to prevent false alarms from normal fumes or steam.

Near Bedrooms and Living Areas

It’s crucial to have a carbon monoxide detector where it can be heard if you are sleeping. 

CO alarms should be located close to where you sleep.

This includes in each bedroom or in the hallway just outside sleeping areas. 

If carbon monoxide leaks at night, an alarm near the bedrooms will sound and wake people up. 

In living spaces like lounges or any room you spend a lot of time in, position a CO detector at roughly head height.

On Each Level of a Home

Ideally, have at least one CO detector on every floor of your house. 

For a two-storey house, that means one upstairs and one downstairs. 

In a single-storey property or apartment, make sure the one alarm you have is located centrally where its alarm can be heard throughout, and not too far from the main bedroom.

Height and Positioning

Carbon monoxide detectors can be installed on the ceiling or high up on a wall. 

Carbon monoxide has roughly the same density as air and also tends to mix with warm air rising from appliances. 

Therefore, you should place the detector at a height where it will detect the gas in the room’s air column. 

If wall-mounting, put it at least as high as any door or window in that room and about 1.5 metres from the floor. 

If ceiling-mounting, it should be at least 30 cm away from the nearest wall, since corners or edges of the ceiling can create dead air space. 

Always follow the manufacturer’s mounting instructions specific to your detector model, as some detectors are designed to be wall-mounted and others on the ceiling.

Garages

If your home has an attached garage, it is wise to install a CO alarm in the room adjacent to the garage door. 

Car exhaust is a common source of carbon monoxide, and fumes can seep into the house from the garage. 

By placing a detector near the internal door to the garage, you’ll be warned if a car left running or any petrol tools in the garage are causing CO to enter your home.

How Does a Carbon Monoxide Detector Work?

how carbon monoxide detector works

A carbon monoxide detector works continuously to sniff out any CO gas. 

Most modern CO detectors use an electrochemical sensor to detect carbon monoxide. 

This sensor reacts with CO gas and generates an electrical signal proportional to the concentration of CO present. 

In simple terms, the detector is constantly measuring the parts-per-million (ppm) level of carbon monoxide in the surrounding air.

When the CO level climbs too high, the detector’s built-in alarm is triggered. 

Carbon monoxide detectors are designed to activate before healthy adults start feeling symptoms of poisoning. 

They often operate on a concentration-time function.

Even relatively low CO concentrations will set off the alarm if they persist for several hours, while higher concentrations trigger the alarm much faster. 

This ensures you are warned in time to take action.

Power Supply

Most CO alarms on the market are battery-powered, though some plug into mains outlets or are hard-wired into a home’s electrical system. 

Regardless of power source, they all function similarly. 

Alarm

The alarm sound is distinct and piercing (often an intermittent series of loud beeps). 

It is designed to be audible enough to wake people from sleep and alert everyone in the house. 

Where Not to Install a Carbon Monoxide Detector

where not to install a carbon monoxide detector

Installing your carbon monoxide detector in the wrong place can undermine its ability to protect you. 

It may lead to false alarms or, worse, failing to alarm when it should. 

To ensure your CO alarm works effectively, you need to avoid certain bad locations and placement mistakes. 

Let’s look at where not to install a carbon monoxide detector:

Blocked or Enclosed Spaces

Never install a CO detector inside a cupboard, behind heavy furniture, or in any enclosed space. 

The sensor needs access to circulating air to detect CO. 

If it’s obstructed or hidden, it may not sense the carbon monoxide until it’s too late. 

Similarly, don’t put it in a narrow corner or at floor level behind curtains. 

Keep it out in the open where air flows freely around it.

Too Close to Appliances

While you want the detector in the same room as a fuel-burning appliance, placing it right next to or above the appliance can be problematic. 

For instance, mounting a CO alarm directly above a gas cooker or very close to a boiler could lead to nuisance alarms. 

If the detector is too close, it might alarm unnecessarily. 

These frequent false alarms can cause people to become desensitised or to disable the alarm. 

For that reason, a minimum distance (often about 1–3 metres or roughly 10 feet) is recommended between the alarm and the appliance. 

This way the detector monitors the general air in the room, not just the immediate vicinity of the appliance’s exhaust.

Near Windows, Vents, or Fans

Avoid installing a carbon monoxide detector right next to a window, exterior door, air vent, or ventilation fan. 

Draughts and fresh air from outdoors can dilute the carbon monoxide in that area, so the detector might not register the gas even if CO is present elsewhere in the room. 

CO could be building up in a different part of the room while fresh air near the detector keeps it low at that spot. 

Likewise, being next to a heating or air conditioning vent can blow air on the sensor and potentially prevent it from detecting CO. 

Always place detectors at least a few feet away from any sources of strong drafts or ventilation.

High Humidity

Do not install CO alarms in bathrooms or above cookers and kettles where they will be exposed to a lot of steam and humidity. 

Excess moisture in the air can interfere with the sensor and lead to false alarms or corrosion over time. 

A hot steamy shower could trigger a nearby CO alarm falsely, or constant humidity might damage its electronic components. 

Keep detectors out of very damp areas like bathrooms, laundry rooms, or right next to humidifiers. 

The same goes for areas with grease or smoke from cooking. 

Grease buildup can clog the sensor opening. 

It’s best to have the kitchen CO detector at least a few metres away from the hob or oven.

Extreme Temperatures

CO detectors generally should be used in living spaces. 

Placing one in an environment that is extremely cold or hot (outside the typical range of about -10°C to 40°C) can cause it to malfunction. 

If you put a detector in an unheated garage or attic that freezes in winter, its battery or sensor might not work properly. 

Instead of mounting an alarm inside a potentially extreme environment like a loft or garage, mount it in the adjacent room where it will still detect CO. 

Always check the manual as it will specify the acceptable temperature and humidity range for the unit.

Out of Earshot

An often-overlooked ‘wrong place’ is any location where you would not hear the alarm. 

Remember that the purpose of a CO detector is to wake you or alert you to danger. 

If you install one in a far corner of the basement but you sleep two floors up, that’s not going to be very useful unless the alarms are interconnected. 

Make sure at least one alarm is close enough to sleeping areas that it would wake everyone up. 

If you have a large home, consider interconnected alarms that all sound if one detects CO, so you can hear the alert everywhere. 

For a standard standalone detector, place it within hearing range of bedrooms.

Carbon Monoxide Sources in Your Home

carbon monoxide sources

We’ve talked about where to put CO detectors, but what are the common sources of carbon monoxide inside a home? 

Carbon monoxide is produced by the incomplete burning of carbon-based fuels. 

This means any appliance or equipment that burns gas, coal, wood, oil, petrol, charcoal, or other fossil fuels can potentially produce carbon monoxide.

In a household setting, several sources can create CO gas:

Gas-fired Appliances

This includes gas boilers (central heating systems), gas water heaters, gas fires in fireplaces, and gas cookers/ovens. 

When working correctly, these appliances burn gas (natural gas or LPG) cleanly to produce heat. 

However, if they are faulty, poorly ventilated, or not properly adjusted, they can produce carbon monoxide. 

For example, a boiler with a blocked flue or a cooker with a yellow, inefficient flame can release CO into your kitchen or utility room. 

It’s one reason regular servicing of gas appliances is so important.

Solid Fuel and Wood Burning Appliances

Wood stoves, coal stoves, open fireplaces, and pellet burners can all emit carbon monoxide. 

Solid fuels naturally create CO as they smoulder and burn. 

If you have a chimney or flue that’s partially blocked or a stove that isn’t drawing properly, CO can spill back into the room. 

Even dying embers in a fireplace overnight can produce CO. 

Always ensure chimneys are clear and well-maintained, and have a CO detector in any room with a fireplace or wood-burning stove.

Vehicle Exhaust

If you have an attached garage, a prime source of carbon monoxide is a car engine. 

Running a car in a garage can build up CO. 

If the garage is attached to the house, the gas can seep through doorways or any small gaps into the home. 

This is why it’s essential to have detectors near the door to an attached garage and of course. 

Never leave vehicles running inside the garage with the door closed. 

Even with the garage door open, CO can accumulate in the garage and drift indoors. 

Some people warm up cars in winter or leave engines running unwittingly and a CO alarm can pick up the danger if those fumes begin entering the home.

Key Takeaways

You should now have more of an understanding of where to install a carbon monoxide detector in your home.

Carbon monoxide detectors are a simple but vital addition to any home that has a fuel-burning appliance. 

They provide an early warning of a deadly gas that you cannot see or smell.

By following the placement guidelines outlined above, you and your family will be alerted in time to act.

Always remember to maintain your detectors: test them regularly and replace the batteries as needed. 

Additionally, maintain your fuel-burning appliances with regular servicing to prevent CO problems at the source.

In a house equipped with properly placed carbon monoxide detectors, you can rest easier knowing you have a watchdog against this silent hazard. 

The shrill beeping of a CO alarm at 3 AM might be jarring, but it could save your life. 

It’s far better than the alternative of not knowing about a carbon monoxide leak.